Review: Donnelly’s Restaurant
Hot restaurant in the industry-cool district
Southwark is easily thought of as simply the home of The Shard, but for those in the know, head down the correct street and you will find Donnelley’s perched unassumingly on the corner, part of Bermondsey Bar and Kitchen. The décor reflects the sustainable ethos with minimal wooden tables and chairs, exposed brick softly painted white, and fairy lights on the ceiling which add a soft, welcoming touch.
All of the dishes are organic, seasonal and sourced locally, which has always been the passion of the brand because it simply makes ethical sense. The back of the menu pays homage to all of the restaurant’s suppliers so it is easy to track exactly where your food has come from. The waiters speak proudly of using, what they term as “rescued veg”, produce that is deemed too ugly to be sold in a supermarket.
The starter of deep-fried ham croquettes is accompanied by a unique, sweet blend of crunchy almonds and sherry vinaigrette to get the taste buds salivating. The vegetarian option of potato, lemon and tarragon croquettes are delightfully fluffy with a light batter and complimented nicely by a delicately spiced tomato sauce.
The list of mains is laden with delicious both meat and fish dishes with courses changed weekly, and sometimes daily, depending on supplier stock. Fish lovers might wish to try the pan-fried Cornish sea bream fillet with its perfectly crispy skin canopying tender, flaky flesh. It rests upon the softest potato puree imaginable. Lemon butter is the final gastronomic touch. Meat eaters should consider the flavourful Galloway aged steak with tartare blue cheese butter drizzled throughout. The side dish of cavolo nero, think of black kale or cabbage, is strewn with succulent confit garlic, can easily be main dish of its own.
The drinks menu was certainly not overlooked. A full-bodied Malbec was one of the many full-bodied wines on offer as an excellent partner to the steak dishes, and rounded white wine, such as Sarotto, with fish. If wine is not your go-to, then there are beers and cider on tap, a selection of spirits and liqueurs, and classic cocktails like a Bramble, Mixed Berry Mojito and a local twist that is aptly named a Bermondsey Iced Tea.
By Rudo Mashongamhende